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Haunted House Props

The Scarecrow

Scarecrow

Crows. Those big, glossy black birds of the genus Corvus, and especially C. brachyrhynchos of North America are real trouble. They’re known to be thieves, and if your graveyard corpses complain about the constant pecking, then you need a real scarecrow to keep them in line.

Now, I’m not suggesting some happy little scarecrow with red cheeks and a fruity grin. What you need is a scarecrow that, when asked, “how about a little fire?” would shove that burning broom right down the wicked witch’s throat and laugh. I mean, crows are some mean, evil creatures. Just one was enough to take out that poor old lady in “Omen II”, for crying out loud. A flock of them aren’t called a “murder” for nothing….. (More)

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Devils Rose

Devil Rose

1)      The first thing that I did was I took a plastic see-thru mask that I bought from Wal-Mart and paper Mache the front of the mask.

2)      Next, I punched holes into the sides of the mask.  Six all together.  These would be for the creature’s tentacles.  The tentacles were made with a combination of bic pens, wire, glue, and cotton.  The six tentacles were then hot glued into each of the 6 holes.

3)      Duct tape was then taped around the tentacles and pulled back some to look like flaps of skin.

4)      For the creature’s eyes, I took a red plastic Easter egg and cut it down to size to fit each of the eyes.  These too were hot glued to the inside of the mask.

5)      At this point the nose needed to be trimmed down.  With a knife I trimmed the tip of the nose down a little, so that it would match the contours of the front of the face.

6)      I needed a mouth to go with the rest of the face so I had to make one.  I made one by taking my skull head (The one I use for Scary Terry’s talking skull) and dip the mouth into a bowl full of plaster of Paris.  The bowl was just an empty plastic butter container.  After about a ½ hr the skull was pulled free from the plaster of Paris.  This left me with the mold for the teeth.  Before using the mold I used canola oil to grease the mold.   I then used liquid latex and poured it into the mold.  After the latex was ready, I pulled it from the mold and placed it on the front of the mask which I then applied some latex to the mask and the mouth as an adhesive.

7)      The rest of the face was then lightly paper Mache, covering the sides of the mouth and beefing up the eyes and nose. The lips were just excess paper Mache that was pulled up in spots.

8)      The nose was created by cutting two slits into the paper Mache and filling with a little cotton.

9)      The back of the head was created by blowing up a balloon and taping it to the mask.  The mask and the balloon were then paper Mache together.

10)  With the 3oz of latex I had, I brushed the tentacles and edges of the front of the mask with latex.

11)  For the creature’s body I bought a 3 inch sump pump plastic pipe 10 foot and two 3 inch couplers for a dryer vent outlet hose.  In the witch’s caldron, I cut a hole for the dryer vent coupler in the bottom of the caldron.  With the plastic pipe that I bought, I cut the 10 foot section to 3 feet.  The other coupler was hot glued to the head and placed on the 3 foot section of pipe along with the other coupler.  The whole top section was then connected to the caldron.

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Spiders Victim

Spider Victim

The Spider’s Victim is a prop that is very simple to make. It is a life-size cocoon of a person that has been attacked by spiders. The person seems to still have some life in him because his finger is still moving.

Here are the materials that were used:

Chicken Wire
PVC
Rope (I used a black rope)
Mask
Wig head
Battery-operated hand that moves (see below)
Inside of a discarded comforter (or batting from a fabric store)
Joint compound
Black and green paint
Spiderwebs

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DIY Floating Head

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Bucky Demon

Bucky Demon

It all started with a few teeth…

When I got one of my Bucky’s from Anatomical Chart Company, I noticed a bunch of extra teeth at the bottom of the box.  Now, in case you haven’t see bucky teeth, the front ones have a long, sharp pointed root.  Aha!  I can make a vampire Bucky!

For the lower jaw, I removed the one that is removable, and then drilled out the corresponding one on the other side.  For the top, I used my dremel to grind down the outside of the tooth, and then superglued the Bucky tooth over it.

The teeth looked great, but I realized that I had more of a demon going than a vampire, so I just changed what I called it.  :>

Next, down at my local hardware store, I got a gallon of Dap Weldwood Carpet Adhesive for $10.49.  What is that?  Good question. 

On the side it says: “Dap Weldwood Carpet Adhesive is a high performance, low odor, white latex adhesive designed for the installation of most interior carpets.”

Ok, so what do I do with it?

Well, first you cover a section of the skeleton with some carpet latex.  Stretch some cotton across the section you want to bulk up, and then cover it with more carpet latex.  The cotton will naturally tend to stretch out in strings, which just adds to the decaying effect.

The cotton I’m actually using is “Sterile Absorbent Cotton” … a continuous roll of cotton about 6 inches wide.  This stuff is GREAT for corpsing!  You can peel off layers of it and cover large areas at once.  I got it in the first aid section of my local Rite Aid when it was going out of business.  You can use something like this, or you can use cotton balls, your choice….
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Bubbling Brew

Bubbling Brew

Materials:

  • one old turntable
  • one plastic cauldron
  • foam water noodles
  • a good stirring stick
  • a wig form and wig
  • 2 small pillows
  • old blankets
  • chicken wire
  • 3/4 inch pvc and fittings
  • wire coat hangers
  • wire ties
  • duct tape
  • spray paint (Black, green, brown)
  • wood

Tools:

  • a screw gun and screws
  • a staple gun
  • construction adhesive
  • carpet knife
  • tape measure/pencil

Step One: Prepare the base
First, we cut a piece of 2×6 wood about 13” long and screwed it to a piece of 1/2” plywood. We then used a smaller piece of 2×6 for the front of the base allowing for the turntable to fit snugly while allowing access for the motor and switch mechanisms to run unimpeded. Measure and cut your plastic cauldron so that it fits over your turntable. Next we drilled a hole in the back of the base just large enough for the 1/2 pvc pipe to fit. A 1×1 was attached to the base with an L-bracket and screws for support. We used a 45 degree fitting to hunch her back for a more realistic pose…..(More)

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